NEPAL, Through the Eyes of the Shamans
AN EXPERIENTIAL, CULTURAL JOURNEY INTO THE ETHNO-INDIGENOUS SPIRITUAL PRACTICE OF NEPALESE SHAMANS

Ethnic groups of Indo-Aryan and Tibeto-Burman descent live in Nepal 's Terai plains and the mountains of the Himalayas. The present Himalayan society is a creation of many mixtures of cultures and despite their cultural and religious differences there are many similarities due to their shared unique, geographical environment. The three important elements of their shared religious-spiritual lives are: a) the indigenous shamanic cults within a limited small cultural groups (villages and communities); b) Hinduism that came from the south, over two thousands years, ago with Sanskrit/Vedic culture and Khas, an Indo-Aryan language which is now, Nepali, the present national language; c) Mahayana Buddhism which arrived from the north during the 11 th century, along with the Tibeto-Burman language.

Indigenous shamanism is not limited to any particular ethnic group or sect. The rituals and ceremonies may be different but they share a similar core. The shamans do not show any prejudices between the poor or rich, cast or color, language or nationality, religion or sect. The shamans have their own personal paraphernalia, sacred objects, drums, sacred chants and dances. The shaman, when inspired by the tutelary deity or their power animal, dance to inspiring spirit rhythms as they journey to the three levels of existence. This is often done to retrieve lost souls. Though the majority of the Nepalese are Hindus, there are Buddhists, Muslims and newly converted Christians. Shamans are found in all religious groups and their service is highly sought after.

Shamanic practitioners are found throughout Nepal and are called, “Dhami” or “Jhankri”. These terms are used interchangeably. Before the introduction of modern medicine people depended on the shamans in case of disease, drought, floods, infertility, family and community disputes, appeasing deities, (calming the wrathful and malignant spirits), conducting household and community ceremonies, advising the villagers on local problems, and in some cases accompanying the souls of the dead to different realms. Many of the shaman's role has now been taken over by Brahmin priests and Buddhist monks, however, in some ethnic groups they still are consulted.

Until the opening of Nepal to foreign scholars, in the 1950, the mysterious Himalayan shaman was not known to the outside world. At this time a large number of ethnologists, anthropologists and medical practitioners conducted extensive research and wrote about the importance of shamans in every aspect of Nepali society.

In l962 and again in l966, Professor A. W. Macdonald made the definition of ‘Jhankri', when he designated ‘Jhankris' as the healers who after having suffered possession by a spirit, manages to control and regulate it. In l967, the Nepalese anthropologist D.B. Bista defined “Jhankrism” as “ shamanism, animism”. It was only in 1973, at a symposium on the anthropology of Nepal, that a complete description of Jhankri became available. In l976, Nepali shamanism became known to the world when the foremost anthropologists published some of their research papers in a book, Spirit Possession in the Nepal Himalayas. Since that date, in depth research has continued.

Tentative Daily Programs

Month/ day
09/17 : All participants arrive in Kathmandu and check into the Hotel Vaishali, which is located in the city's historic area of Thamel. A group welcome dinner will be held on the first night of the trip.

09/18 : In the morning we tour the old, historic and religious sections of Kathmandu. We lunch in the Durbar Square and visit the Royal Kumari House, where the Kumari, the living goddess, resides. We walk back to Thamel through Asan Bazar, the oldest commercial center of the valley. This will be followed by a late afternoon workshop.

09/19: In the morning we visit the temples and cremation sites of Pashupatinath (lord of the animals). This site, on the holy Bagmati River, is sacred to Lord Shiva who is the destroyer of evil and sorrow. Lord Shiva is revered as the master of the majority of shamans. We also visit Guheshwari, the powerful female deity temple. Having visited these two two shrines we visit the well-known shaman, Gauri Devi, who is the manifestation of the Goddess Durga. Gauri Devi will do healings and divinations for members of our group. After this session we return to the hotel for a workshop.

09/20: A morning drive, of 27 kilometers, takes us to the famous shrine of Vajra Jogini in Sankhu. This is one of the most powerful places in the Kathandu Valley. Vajra Jogini protects the valley from thunder, landslides and bestows fertility and abundance on all. On our return we visit Boudhanath. Boudhanath has one of the largest stupas in the world and is a famous Buddhist pilgrimage site. We lunch under the benevolent eyes of the Buddha and visit the monasteries around the stupa. If possible, we may be able to participate in the late afternoon prayers of the monks in one of the monasteries. When we return to the hotel we will prepare for the trip to Pokhara.

09/21 : In the morning we fly to Pokhara and check into The Kantipur Hotel (www.hotelthekantipur.com) and have lunch at a lakeside restaurant. We then visit the temple of Tal Barahi (Ganesha Temple) in the middle of Fewa Lake. We take small boats across the lake in order to see the lush green forest and the panorama of the mountain ranges.

09/22 : In the morning we drive to a Tibetan Refugee Camp to visit with three shamans who will give divinations and healings. If our group is large we may have to return the next day so that everybody has chance to have a healing. These shamans are known for their extraction type of healing. We return to the lakeside for dinner.

09/23 : In the morning we take an excursion to Sarangkot. From here we can see Fewa Lake and the Himalayan ranges of Annapurna and Machhapuchre. After a lakeside lunch we may return to complete the healing sessions with the three shamans. If we do not have to return to the refugee camp we will visit the Peace Pagoda on the far side of the lake.

09/24 : An early morning flight takes us back to Kathmandu. We than drive to Bhaktapur (the city of devotees), about 18 kilometers, and check into Bhadgaon Guest House (www.bhadgaonguesthouse.com). In the afternoon we will explore this unique medieval city with visits to Bhaktapur's Durbar Square and Taumadi Chowk. We will also have an opportunity to see wood carvers, potters, spinners and weavers at work.

09/25 : Today we receive blessings from the Bhaktapur Kumari, the living goddess, and than drive to Duwakot where the “egg shaman” lives. Here we receive healings, divinations, and shamanic advice. In the afternoon we visit the Peacock Window, the symbol of Bhaktapur, the pottery square and other places of historic and religious interest.

09/26 : After breakfast we visit a young Newari shaman on the periphery of Bhaktapur. His way of working is different from the other shamans whowe have visited. We can receive a healing and observe him at work. After lunch we drive to Kathmandu.

09/27: In the morning we visit the Bon Monastery and get to know their spiritual practices and herbal medicine preparations. We then drive to Swayambhunath. Here we climb 365 stone steps, with other pilgrims, to reach the hilltop that is home to the great stupa, chortens, shrines and a monastery. This hill is the home for hundreds of monkeys who feel they are the lords of this hill. Sometimes, they snatch treats from your hands or even your bag. Be careful of these tricksters for they can be dangerous. After walking down the hill we return to Thamel for a late afternoon workshop.

09/28 : In the early morning we drive to Chobar Gorge where the water, from the valley, empties into the plains. We visit the temple of Jala Binayaka, which is known to grant wishes pertaining to love, and happy marriage. (We, however, cannot give any guarantees.) We then depart for Pharping (27 kilometers) a small settlement that has the temple to Saraswati, the goddess of learning and wisdom. Close by, we visit the cave of Guru Rimpoche and walk up the hill to offer our individual prayer flags for the well being of the planet and for ourselves. We return to Thamel for a late afternoon workshop.

09/29 : Today we visit Patan the ‘city of beauty' that has an incredible Durbar Square, an open museum, the Golden temple, and the temple of Kumbeshwar (wisdom teacher of many shamans). We return to Kathmandu for a free afternoon.

09/30 : In the early hours of the morning we visit Budhanilakantha, that has a 7 th century statue of Vishnu reclining in a pond, symbolic of the cosmic ocean. We observe and participate in the prayers and offerings of young Brahmins and receive blessings before returning to Thamel. If anyone wants to get individual healing, half of the morning and half of the afternoon will be devoted to these sessions. There will also be time for last minute shopping and packing. In the late afternoon, there will be a final workshop with a ‘shamanic initiation'. Initiation means to embark upon the long journey of spiritual wisdom. We conclude the day with a group farewell dinner.

10/01 : Morning departure for the airport will depend upon individual flight schedules. We salute each other with a warm ‘Namaste' and pray that we see each other again in the near future. (Hotel checkout time is 12:00 noon )

COST OF THE TOUR is US$ 1990 The single supplement is provided by adding US$ 375

The cost includes accommodation at the Hotel Vaishali a 3* hotel in Thamel, Hotel Kantipur in Pokhara a very good, quiet hotel with a big garden, and the Bhadgaon Guest House, the best hotel in Bhaktapur. All the hotel accommodations are on bed and breakfast plan. Also included are all the entrance fees to the temples and squares, wherever it is applicable; round trip airfare between Kathmandu and Pokhara; all airport transfers; tours in private luxury buses; three airport taxes; tips to the drivers, helpers and hotel staff and fees to the interpreters and facilitators.

The cost does not include : airfare to and from Nepal, travel and health insurance, Nepalese visa fee (US$30), consultation and healing fees to the shamans, meals, drinks, personal expenses, extra expenses caused by some natural calamities. If we have bad weather in Pokhara we may have to charter a helicopter to Kathmandu. The cost of this is not included in the package. Not included, what is not mentioned in the clause other than ‘cost includes'.

NOTE:

• All the participants are requested to have health and travel insurance.
• We have written in the program that we will see beautiful mountain scenery. Weather, however, may prevent us from seeing all the magnificent scenes.
• This is a very special journey where the spiritual and the energetic work is the focus. We request that you keep (your feet on the earth level) grounded all the time.
• Your fellow participants may be practitioners of different styles and belief systems, please respect all traditions.
• The hotels and accommodations may not be the type you are used to. Three may not be hot running water all the time. If you have any problems please contact the hotel front office or a group leader.
• Though the political situation is improving day by day, we may encounter strikes or roadblock, so we must be flexible.
• Please dress with respect when we are on tour, when we visit the shamans in their homes and at workshops. I suggest pants or skirts and shirts with sleeves.
• The shamans mentioned in the program may not be available due to ill health or other personal reasons.
• Lightweight clothing can be purchased in the markets in Kathmandu.
• If there are any problems please see the tour organizers immediately. Daily, we must solve every problem so we do not carry them over to the next day.
• Don't forget your medicines.
• 4 Passport size photos for obtaining visa at the airport

CURRENCY AND MONEY:

All the payments are to be made in cash. No bank cheques are accepted. Travelers' cheques and major credit cards are accepted. Often credit cards can be demagnetized, please check yours before leaving the country.

The present exchange rate is 1US$ = Rs.70 and 1euro = Rs. 83. Rates are subject to change due to international market fluctuations.

MINIMUM NO. OF PARTICIPANTS: 15

For travel logistics and other information, please write to:
James A. Dalton, CTC
American International Travel
Affiliated with The Spirit of Travel
305 South Parker Road- Suit 201
Aurora, CO 80014, U.S.A.
Tel: 303 751-7200 FAX: 303 751-7526
Toll Free: 800 359-7200
E-mail: aitjim@yahoo.com

TARIFF IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE DUE TO RISE IN PETROLIUM PRODUCTS AND FLUCTUATION IN INTERNATIONAL MONETARY EXCHANGE RATES.